Written by Lindsey Riley.
Currently, lettering in the form of bold logos is a key fashion influence for accessories. Luxury brands are tapping into the eighties, which was the birth of branded clothing from labels like Gloria Vanderbilt Jeans and Calvin Klein. An army officer’s goatskin duty pouch bearing the royal cypher, and crested initials studded on a vintage leather trunk in the National Leather Collection illustrate the well-established use of monograms and lettering throughout history.
At Autumn/Winter retail, Fendi features large encircled letter ‘F’s on earrings, bracelets and bags. Louis Vuitton’s signature LV doubles as a clasp on a colourful appliqued handbag. Pointy-toe pumps get a heavy branded make-over with heels formed out of the YSL logo at Saint Laurent and red stilettos emblazoned have as much branding as a cycling jersey at Balenciaga. Dolce & Gabbana’s initials are made to appear as if scrawled in red glittery lipstick on eighties trainers.
Fendi F bracelet.
Louis Vuitton LV clasp bag.
Fendi F logo bag.
Yves Saint Laurent signature heels.
There are even more instore for spring summer 18. On the Chanel runway branding is so big it doesn’t fit on the body of the bag. ‘NEL’, declares a roomy weekender. A smaller pouch is cropped to spell ‘CHA’.
Apparel is also seeing the rise of mega branding. Mimicking counterfeit t-shirts to create genuine ‘fakes’ is a tongue in cheek reference to the nineties when many brands became over licenced and over exposed. Loud iconic graphics shout out, proclaiming their allegiance with today’s maximalist, materialistic fashion scene.
Balenciaga ruched red stilettos.
Dolce & Gabbana lipstick logo trainers.
Fashion relies on opposites and since the stealth-wealth, discrete branding following the economic crash of 2008, logos have remained low key. However, a decade on, it feels right for the next wave of brash logos. This time around they are used less as an aspirational symbol of wealth and more as a badge of who is in the know; showing that you belong to a designer tribe. So, when dotting the I’s and crossing the T’s of your must-have wardrobe essentials of the season, logo mania is a trend to follow to the letter.
Lindsey Riley is Course Leader for BA Cordwainers Bags & Accessories, London College of Fashion and Leather Trend Consultant.
National Leather Collection pieces:
An officer’s duty pouch. Made of black goatskin, and featuring gold braid embellishment. This is Victorian, dating to 1860.
A coffer of wood, covered with shaved hide. This casket features nailed ornamentation, including the initials ‘KR’, the royal crown and steel corner pieces. Perhaps once the property of Katherine of Braganze.